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Journal from Iraq

Monday, August 2nd

Back home


Well, Peter and I are back in the great Northwest.

We touched down at Sea-Tac Airport about 12:10 p.m. local time Monday after a 20-hour sojourn from Kuwait.

While I was ready to return to my beautiful wife, Laura, and the comforts of home, I had some mixed feelings when we boarded the 767 that would take us on the first leg of our journey, from Kuwait to Amsterdam.

This last six weeks in the Middle East were the experience of a lifetime for me, both professionally and personally. Although I am bone weary and not ready to be mortared again any time soon, I kind of hate to see it end. Iraq is a fascinating place to practice journalism, and there are still stories to tell about the 81st Brigade Combat Team and the job it is doing. I regret we couldn't get to them all, but six weeks really isn't that long in the grand scheme of things.

I want to extend my thanks to The News Tribune for expending the resources to send us to Iraq. I want to thank my family and friends for supporting me in my dream to be a war correspondent. I want to thank Peter Haley for being a consumate professional and swell traveling partner.

But most of all I want to thank the members of the 81st Brigade for opening their lives to us, for endeavoring to keep us safe and for telling us their stories. They are class acts, and I'm praying they all make it home safely.




alynn on 08.02.04 @ 10:29 PM CST


Friday, July 30th

Bye bye, Balad



Well, Peter and I are out of Iraq.

We left the same way we came in, in the sweltering cargo hold of an Air Force C-130. We lifted off the airfield at LSA Anaconda at 5:31 p.m. local time bound for Kuwait, where we touched down about 1-1/2 hours later.

Of course, we didn't get out without one last rocket attack, the 41st of our stay with the 81st Brigade Combat Team at Anaconda.

There we were, on the plane and ready to go, when the pilot shut down the engines and told us to evacuate the aircraft. Seems the insurgents had sent a mortar into camp and the red-alert siren was blaring again. Frankly, I couldn't believe my ears.

So we scrambled out, climbed into the beds of pickups and were whisked to a nearby concrete building to wait out the attack. Half and hour later, we were airborne, and I breathed a sigh of relief.

The night before, we were treated to a farewell dinner by Brig. Gen. Oscar Hilman and his command staff. The chow was pretty good, much better than standard D-FAC fare, and we got to eat off ceramic dishes for the first time in five weeks. I felt like a civilized human being again.

Hilman also presented us with some nice plaques commemorating our time with the 81st Brigade. It was a classy gesture and reflective of the treatment we received while embedded with the 81st. Everyone was extremely helpful, friendly and willing to share their stories with us. It was a great trip, and I hope we were successful in showing the folks back home Ð at least in a small way Ð how their friends and relatives are doing during their deployment.

We'll be in Kuwait for a couple of days tying up loose ends before heading back to Sea-Tac Airport on Monday.

alynn on 07.30.04 @ 03:33 AM CST


Wednesday, July 28th

Ug-a-ly glasses


urbanoglasses (14k image)

2nd Lt. Brandon Urbano of Tacoma calls them BCGs -- "birth control glasses."

"They're ugly as sin, but they work," Urbano said of the tacky eyeglass frames issued by the Army.

He's the one here sporting the sunglass version. If you look closely, you can make him out behind those monsters.

81st Brigade optometrist Bruce Flint said the less-than-appealing frames have their benefits. For one thing, they're sturdy. For another, it's easier and cheaper for the Army to requisition and distribute only one model, Flint said.

"There are some good reasons for it," he said. "But nobody really likes the military-issue frames. Even I wish they looked a little better."






alynn on 07.28.04 @ 02:07 AM CST


Saturday, July 24th

Splish-splash


poolpic (21k image)


An oasis has opened in the dust bowl that is Logistical Support Area Anaconda.

The outdoor swimming pool here Ð built during the Saddam Hussein years but in a state of disrepair since the U.S.-led invasion of Iraq Ð reopened Saturday.

It's a hit. Soldiers thronged to the Olympic-sized pool, which features two diving platforms plus a springboard. They sunbathed on the deck, played volleyball in the shallow end or just cooled their toes in the sparkling blue water.

"I've been looking forward to this for a long time," said 2nd Lt. Ferley Jaramillo of the 81st Brigade's Headquarters and Headquarters Company. "It's beautiful. There aren't as many waves as the indoor pool. Plus you've got this diving platform. You can't beat that."

Jaramillio, sporting long black trunks with green flames on the side, did flip after flip off the high platform Saturday afternoon as dance music blasted from a sound system set up on the deck.

"I may stay 'til 2 a.m.," said Jaramillo, an Olympia resident who works in the State Attorney General's Office back home.

Cpl. Quinita Towsend of Des Moines had more sedentary thoughts in mind. Townsend brought an inflatable beach chair that she planned to lounge in as the temperatures hovered at 115 degrees.

"It's beautiful, just look at it," she said, pointing to the pool. "It's just so nice." She's right, and this picture by Peter proves it.

Not even a mid-afternoon rocket attack could spoil the fun. The dripping bathers took cover at the nearby soccer stadium until the all-clear sounded, then it was back to splashing.







alynn on 07.24.04 @ 09:35 AM CST


Wednesday, July 21st

More car trouble


hummer (17k image)



Another Humvee breakdown. Another four years off my life.

This time we got into trouble outside a place called Bakar village near LSA Anaconda. "This place absolutely hates us," Staff Sgt. James Heaney of Port Orchard said Tuesday evening as we motored past the village during another "presence patrol" designed to suppress insurgent activity in the area.

Just down the road Heaney pointed out the field where two 81st Brigade soldiers were killed in an ambush last month. Just down the road from there, he pointed out a former Iraqi police station that was abandoned after weeks of constant attack by insurgents.

Just down the road from there, we stopped to keep watch over the area, and, ominously, to let our radiator cool down. A group of soldiers in another Humvee in our patrol had spotted fluid leaking from beneath our rig, and the needle on the dashboard temperature gauge was in the red.

"We'll let it cool down, add some water, and it should be all right," Heaney said.

A little over an hour later, darkness fell as we prepared to make another sweep through Bakar before heading home.

We got just to the outskirts of town when Pfc. Matt Fong, a Tukwila resident who was driving, informed Heaney that the temperature needle was back in the red.

Heaney cursed. "Understand, this is not an area where we need to be stopping," he said.

The decision was made to call off the patrol and head back to Anaconda ASAP. A quickly executed three-point turn had us on the shortest route back to camp. The question then became: Would the Humvee make it back under its own power?

As Fong sped along, he reported the engine temperature to Heaney every 30 seconds. "250. 250. Beyond 250."

A Humvee behind us then radioed that water was streaming from the bottom of our rig. Heaney, a highly competent noncommissioned officer, was clearly agitated, which did nothing for my confidence. "Get us in," he shouted at Fong.

Less than a minute later, though, we were stopped on the shoulder. Heaney cursed again. "We're going to end up towing it," he said.

As soldiers set up a security perimeter around the crippled Humvee, Heaney and Sgt. Rick Larsen of Sequim hooked Heaney's rig up to another Humvee with a tow strap. The speed with which they worked would have made a NASCAR pit crew envious. Nothing like the threat of getting shot to motivate you.

The photograph above, which Peter shot through night-vision equipment, shows Heaney and Larsen as they stretch the tow strap between the two rigs.

Then, at the excruciating speed of 15 mph, with the headlights off so as not to advertise our crippled condition, we limped back in to Anaconda.

Heaney later apologized that the mission was cut short. "I take pride in maintaining my truck," he said.

At that point, I was just glad to be back inside the wire, where the only real threat is the occasional rocket attack.










alynn on 07.21.04 @ 12:39 AM CST


Sunday, July 18th

Haircut turned hair-raising experience


Was getting a haircut at a post barber shop this evening when a loud bang sounded outside on the street.

All the barbers, Lt. Col. Harry Gonzalez and I, who was in mid-cut, hit the floor in a hurry. Gonzalez grabbed his M-16 and loaded it before peeking out the window to see what was going on. I grabbed my helmet and hugged the linoleum.

Turned out to be nothing more than a back-firing truck, which left us all chuckling, albeit nervously.

You get a little jumpy in a combat zone.
alynn on 07.18.04 @ 11:34 AM CST


Zipping over Baghdad


helishot (63k image)

Traveled from Baghdad back up to Balad aboard a UH-60 Black Hawk helicopter. It's quite a thrill. The pilots fly low enough to spook sheep and fast enough to raise hair.

I'm the son of a helicopter pilot and have logged a few hours in the air, but nothing like that. Wow!

Here's a shot Peter took of northern Baghdad as we zipped along. That's a graveyard and mosque in the foreground. In the background is a typical Baghdad neighborhood. To the right is a machine gun sticking out the left door of the Black Hawk.

Those are bad birds.






alynn on 07.18.04 @ 11:30 AM CST


Friday, July 16th

A palace in ruins



Salampic (39k image)

Took a tour Friday of the Al Salam Palace at Logistical Support Area Gunner, which is also known as LSA Highlander, just outside Baghdad.

Saddam Hussein reportedly built the palace after the 1991 Gulf War as a kind of "in your eye" statement to the United States. "Basically, because he could," said Lt. Col. Chris Fowler, commander of the 1st Battalion, 161st Infantry Regiment, which is based at Gunner/Highlander.

It cost about $1 billion to construct the four-story edifice, which at one time featured enormous busts of Saddam on each corner. There was a huge movie theater inside, marble tile throughout and, reportedly, a harem of women that were sexually exploited and abused by Saddam, his sons and guests.

A local carver who served as an Iraqi commando during the first Gulf War shaped intricate and colorful mosaics on most of the ceilings. The man, named Saba, now serves on a local neighborhood council, said Lt. Wade Aubin, who served as tour guide Friday.

The United States attacked the palace by air in 2003, hitting it with seven guided bombs. Looters struck next, making off with everything including the toilets.

The devastation was immense, as you can see by this picture taken by Peter.
alynn on 07.16.04 @ 05:28 AM CST




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